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Egg Carton Labels and Animal Welfare — 33 Comments

  1. Janet,
    How many chickens did you start out with and how many eggs did they lay for you in the begging? Would you say 5 acres would be enough for goats,chickens, and veggies?

    Thank you so much for this valuable information!

    • Hi Elizabeth, we keep about 10-20 chickens at any given time. Currently I have 15 and will be getting 6 new chicks in a few weeks. How well they lay depends on breed. The best layers will each lay an egg almost every day. In contrast, some of our bantams lay 2-3 eggs per week, and tend to go broody for a few weeks in spring or summer, during which time they don’t lay at all. Five acres is definitely enough for chickens, goats, and veggies, assuming it’s all usable land and not 4 acres of wetland or something like that. Even on my one acre I could fit a few Nigerian dwarf goats if I wanted…have toyed with the idea, but I think I have enough on my hands right now. On your 5 acres you could fit some larger dairy goats, if you want. Good luck!!

  2. Hi,

    Congrats on your certification! I’m inspired to look into that as well for promoting awareness on animal rights. I talked with you awhile back about losing two chicks by hawks. You suggested getting at least two or three new chicks to add to my older flock. We ended up getting 6 adorable new ones instead!! We now have 11 chickens and will be selling eggs on the roadside.

    I have another question. Do you eat your chickens when they no longer lay eggs? I am a vegetarian and could never do that but my husband wants to know what you do with your older chickens? I wouldn’t mind keeping mine as pets and that’s it. Just thought I’d ask. Also, how much did it cost for the certification?

    Thanks so much,
    Monica

    • Forgot to answer about the cost of certification. I don’t remember what it was because the details are fading from my mind – We got certified last fall, but I never got around to putting on my blog until now. Also it was a little complicated, because we were seeking Predator Friendly Certification, for which AWA certification is a prerequisite. So it was a 2 tiered thing, and a bit more complicated than usual. We applied for and received a fee reduction for one or the other of those certifications. We were able to get it because we don’t make much money off our farm. If you’re interested in AWA cert., you can read about their application process on their website and then email them with questions. We found both organizations to be very responsive and pleasure to deal with.

  3. Hi Monica, yes, I remember your previous question about the chicks. Congrats on the 6 new ones! No, we do not eat our chickens when laying declines. Not that we are opposed to eating them, it’s just more than we want to do. Killing them is traumatic for us; we’ve done it only to put ailing birds out of their misery and we hated doing it each time. Plus I would hate the plucking and butchering part.

    By the way, laying declines gradually with age, it’s not usually a sudden things. And hens are all individuals – some will lay fairly well into old age, while others lay very few by the time they are 3 or 4. I have a 9 year old who lays better than some of my 3 year olds. On the other hand, I have a 7 year old who lays very few.

    I also like having a multi generation flock. The old ones are quite savvy at foraging and predator detection, and the young ones learn from them. I think if they free range at all, the younger ones have a better survival rate with the older ones around. The old ones know what to do, and the young ones follow along. It’s flock mentality.

    There is also a natural attrition rate, if you will. Hens die for one reason or another, and you’re not likely to have an entire flock to survive together into old age. My 9 year old is the only one left from a flock of 8 chicks I got 9 years ago.

    That said, if space is really limited and you can’t add a few chicks every few years, you could find yourself caring for old hens and getting very few eggs. That’s a problem that I’m grateful not to have. My coop and runs can easily hold 20 or more hens, and we could easily expand the coop, so we will always have eggs enough for our family, and then some, even while allowing hens to grow old here.

  4. Thanks for that info, Janet – I had no idea that “pasture-raised” could mean that the hens actually don’t have access to “pasture.” Good grief, will the deception in labeling never end?

  5. Fantastic post! So eye-opening. When my husband and I are in North America we’ve been buying “pastured” certified organic eggs from our supermarket thinking that was the most animal-welfare-friendly we could get. I am going to search for AWA from now on. We are lucky when we are at our home in Greece – we walk down the street and ask our friend if he has any eggs from the chickens he keeps in his olive grove. I grew up in Mass. (Winchester), and if I still lived there I’d be at your doorstep right now!

    • Thanks so much for the kind remarks, Maureen. It was eye-opening for me, as well, when I did the research. AWA certified foods are really hard to find, by the way. I think the only place I’ve seen them is at Whole Foods. But AWA and customer awareness are both growing, so in time, foods bearing the AWA stamp should become more widely available.

  6. Super article – easy to read and so informative! Thanks for the time you put into it. Definitely gonna encourage some friends to read this! Know more about where are food comes form & how it is raised, I believe, is a key to being healthier. It’s so easy to read those labels & think “Oh they sound great!” but it’s another thing to really know what the terms mean (and don’t mean) as they can be so confusing for consumers.

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  27. Greetings from California!
    I’ve enjoyed reading the articles on your web site. I’ve been raising chickens for several years but there is always something more to learn. One thing I’ve struggled with in the past is how to successfully introduce new chicks to the old girls! Like you, every few years I get a few new chicks and wonder about how to integrate them into my flock. How old should they be? Doing it gradually seems best , but for how long? Regardless of how I’ve done it in the past, I always have some ruffled feathers!
    Thanks so much, Janet

    • Hi Janet, sorry for the delay, but I’ve been a bit overwhelmed with work! There is no clearcut answer to your question. The more gradually you introduce them, the better. I generally do not have them fully integrated until the younger birds are laying or about to start laying, because at that point they are about at adult size, and are therefore less likely to be bullied. Doing it that way, I have had very few problems with aggression.